Initially, Banaras specialized in cotton textiles. Over time, the use of silk became prevalent, likely influenced by the British Empire’s import of cheaper cotton fabrics. The introduction of real zari and kalavattu (gold and silver threads) further elevated the craftsmanship, though their use has declined due to the rising cost of precious metals.

Ancient Mentions

Kautilya's Reference (4th Century BC): Kashi is mentioned as a major cotton textile manufacturer.

Buddhist Jataka Tales: Highlight the cotton fields of Kashi.

Patanjali’s Observations (Shunga Period, 2nd-1st Century BC): Kashi’s textiles were considered superior in quality, being more expensive and attractive than those produced elsewhere.

Mahaparinirvana Sutra: Records that the mortal remains of Lord Buddha were wrapped in a fine, smooth cotton cloth from Varanasi, with a distinctive blue tinge.

Medieval Period

Damodara Gupta (8th Century): In "Kutuni Bhaktam," he notes that Banaras’ wealthy wore clothes woven with gold threads.

Baihaki (11th Century): "Tarikh-us-Subutagin" mentions the prominence of Banarasi textiles among the items looted by the Sevans.

Mughal Era

Akbar and Shahjahan’s Reigns: References to muslin clothes used for making turbans, waistbands, and other garments.

European Travelers' Accounts: Travelers like Ralph Switch (1585-86), M. Mundy (1632), and Baptist Tavenier (1665) described Kashi’s flourishing textile industry and its global trade links.

International Trade: Iranian, Turkish, Atari, and European traders frequented Kashi, and its textiles were widely exported through major ports.